May is one of my favourite times of the year in Europe. Even in the north winter is well and truly over, the weather is good and the pavement cafés are bustling. The heat of the summer has not yet arrived and the days are long. Gardens look glorious at this time of year, and there is no better place to experience them than in the Loire Valley France. Or perhaps you prefer to explore some ancient historical sites, in which case the Peloponnese in Greece, and the old capital city of Nafplio, could be your ideal destination. If you prefer the splendour of nature, then perhaps Bergen, gateway to the Fjords, could be your ideal destination.
These are just three ideas among the many wonderful places to visit in Europe in May.
The Loire Valley, France, in May
The Loire valley, running from Orleans to Angers in France, has one of the highest concentrations of castles, or rather chateaux, of anywhere in Europe.
It should be said that many of these aren’t castles in the traditional sense of a medieval fortress, rather these are palaces and stately homes of the rich aristocrats during the renaissance era. Although saying that the chateau in Angers is very definitely a castle.
It is a lovely area to visit, not only for the chateaux, but also for the vineyards that cover the area. There are several delightful towns, the prettiest of which is probably Amboise.
There is a tendency of some travellers to try and visit as a day trip, covering the Chateaux of Chambord and Chenonceau, which are perhaps the most famous chateaux in the area. However, I think that 3 or 4 days is better to truly appreciate this area.
My favourite chateau of them all is Chaumont-sur-Loire. The chateau looks like a fairy tale, it has the most fabulous stables, and best of all it has the most beautiful gardens.
It is in these gardens that the International Garden Festival has been held every year since 1992. Each year the gardens have a different theme, this year it is cinema. There are 24 gardens ranging in theme from Jurassic, to Avatar and even the Little shop of horrors (Feed me, Seymour!).
The festival runs through to the end of October, but I think May is the best time to visit, before the summer heat has time to dry anything out.
Just a ten-minute drive from Chaumont-sur-Loire sits the Hotel Les Hauts de Loire, a former hunting lodge converted into a 5* hotel. Carrying on the garden theme the hotel has rather charmingly added sculptures to its park. With a Clarins spa and a gastronomic restaurant (with Chef Arthur Peta), it makes the perfect place to enjoy this magical region.
Bergen, Norway, in May
Bergen is Norway’s second largest city. It sits on the Southwest coast, surrounded by mountains and Fjords, and an island that protects its harbour from the worst of the North Sea weather.
It is seen by many as being the gateway to the Fjords, but is worthy of a visit in its own right. It has a small town feel, with charming cobbled streets and colourful wooden warehouses. It originally made its money from fishing, with German Hanseatic League traders running the warehouses to sell preserved cod throughout Europe. The Bryggen area is a UNESCO heritage site for its Hanseatic connection.
Whilst it is still a working fishing port, much of the money these days comes from tourists. It is a popular stop for cruise ships, and the thousands of passengers flood the Bryggen wharf during the day. So instead get out of the town. There are several mountains that are accessible. Take the funicular up to Mount Floyen and walk back down through the forest. Or take a cable car up to Ulriken for some breathtaking views of the area.
After around 3pm the cruise ship passengers return to their ships and that is the time to explore the old town as the sun dips slowly in the sky, although by the middle of the month it doesn’t really get truly dark.
The best time to visit Bergen is between May and October, but the big advantage of visiting in May is to experience Constitution day. The procession of youth brigades with drums, ladies in traditional buand costume and street performers winds its way through Bergen’s streets.. The youth brigades, called Buekorps, are specific to Bergen making this a unique sight. The day ends with a firework display at Festplassen.
Nafplio, Greece, in May
Nafplio was once the capital of Greece. (Also sometimes spelt Napflion or Nauplia) It is one of mainland Greece’s prettiest towns with a charming promenade and plenty of tavernas. It has had many layers of occupation over the centuries, including Byzantine and Ottoman and to this day retains a decidedly Venetian feel left over from when they controlled the area.
Nafplio has the major advantage of being just a two hour drive from Athens, with no ferries required unlike the Greek island destinations most tourists flock to.
May is the perfect time to visit, as some of the best sights to visit in the area become unbearable in the heat of summer, as they have little shade.
Palamidi is a Venetian fortress that sits high above the town and rewards visitors who brave the 999 steps to the top with some stunning views over the Argolic Gulf. Nafplion sits at the head of this gulf, which gives it a sheltered aspect.
The two other notable sights in the area, that are my main reason for recommending Nafplio, are the UNESCO protected Archaeological site of Mycenae and the Theatre at Epidaurus.
The Mycenaean civilisation were the first advanced civilisation on the Greek mainland, dating back to the bronze age (1600 to 1100 BC) . This is the site that Homer referred to as rich in gold, and where great treasures were found when the site was excavated in the 19th century. The gold treasures, including death masks and jewellery, are housed in the National Archaeological museum in Athens, but this is where you can visit the site where they were found. The beehive shaped tomb of Agamemnon is awesome in the truest sense of the word, especially when you consider just how old it is.
The ancient theatre of Epidaurus is a classical Greek theatre in the sanctuary dedicated to the Greek god of medicine Asclepius. Pilgrims would come from across the world to be treated at the sanctuary and the theatre provided entertainment and cultural events for them as part of the healing process. Seating 14,000 people it has incredible acoustics, which can still be experienced to this day. This is one of the best-preserved sites of ancient Greece and is well worth a visit.
Much of the accommodation in the old town is simple and a little old fashioned. Not so the Hotel Navria. Tucked away in a quiet square, the Ottoman period exterior hides a contemporary comfortable interior. This is one time where a boutique hotel definitely wins. It is right in the heart of the town, where you can enjoy some wonderful Greek food at the tavernas, or why not one of the ice-creams the region is celebrated for.
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