A spacious traditional 5-star city hotel with outstanding views of Porto, and a quality of staff beyond compare.
I have read many comments lately about travelling to European cities saying that the hotel you stay in doesn’t change the trip. Anyone who says that has clearly never stayed at The Yeatman.
The hotel feels like it has always been there, like it belongs. And yet it was built in the 21st century.
So many hotels are forgettable. Even very good ones merge into one with no real character or soul. The Yeatman isn’t like that. It has soul, and presence and individuality. If this review sounds a little like a love letter, then I make no apologies. I am totally in love with this hotel and I would happily live there for the rest of my days.
It’s not a high tech hotel, which given it’s age is somewhat surprising. I’m sure there is plenty of tech going on in the background, but I was not expected or required to interact with it. I didn’t have to sign any ipads or flash any QR codes. Just a nice calm check-in sitting by a proper desk. The whole hotel has a sense of tradition, with a touch of British style, which I suspect goes a long way to the feeling of belonging.
One of the first things you notice is the sense of space. Given that this is a city break destination, the space is more like you would expect at a country retreat. Even the corridors are wide and welcoming. The rooms are some of the largest hotel rooms I have experienced, certainly for a city break. All the rooms have a view, and the view is stunning. A full panoramic view of Porto, the Douro River and the iconic Dom Luis bridge. Each room is named after one of the wine partners of the hotel. We were in Howards Folly, which turned out to be a wine producer from the Alentejo region. There are 109 rooms in the hotel, which I think gives a glimpse into how many good Portuguese wine producers there are.
I was travelling with my best friend, a very well-travelled retired lawyer. We arrived at the hotel just in time for sunset over the Douro River. We had our own terrace, with a couple of sun loungers, a small table and a couple of large planters. One of these planters, and the laurier rose planted in it, is responsible for the only complaint I have about this hotel. When lying in bed the plant was in just the wrong position so I couldn’t see the bridge. That is genuinely my only complaint about this hotel.
The bed was very comfortable, the sheets some of the nicest I have ever felt. Sheets are one of the things I really notice after 20 years in the business. I was always searching for the best possible sheets.
The toiletries provided were good, with particular note was that there was both liquid soap and a nice bar of soap. The toilet had a separate door which I really appreciate. We had both a good shower and a large bathtub which is a real luxury in a city hotel.
One thing that really made this room standout was that rather than a TV being the dominant feature in the room, it was a bookcase. With some really interesting books. There was a history of the Yeatman which my friend spent a happy hour flicking through, and a copy of “1066 and all that” written by a member of the Yeatman family, with a preface that guests should take it home if they liked. I did and my husband was very appreciative. There is a TV in the room by the way, it just isn’t particularly big and didn’t dominate, which suited me perfectly.
There are big blackout curtains for when you get tired of the amazing view, although it is one of those views I would imagine would be difficult to tire of. Unlike the view of a hillside or similar, this one is constantly on the move, with boats on the water, the cable cars passing down to the river banks, and even the seagulls passing by.
The air-conditioning is quiet and the soundproofing is spot on. We heard nothing from any other guests, so it was somewhat of a surprise to turn up to the breakfast room to find it bustling. And what a breakfast! Again you have the fantastic views, the hotel is built in such a way that all the public rooms have a view. The room is large and spacious, table sizes are generous and the seating is comfy enough to stay all day.
The breakfast spread was excellent. There was good selection of pastries and cakes and a choice of breads; lots of different cheese and ham; some lovely fruit all perfectly ripe and a full hot buffet selection. The pièce de résistance, however, has to be Chef Cidalia Franca at the omelette and Tapioca station. Now when we got to breakfast and we were told she did good tapioca my mind immediately went to the tapioca pudding we used to have for school dinners (anyone who had school meals in the UK in the 70s and 80s will know what I mean). I never liked it then and was somewhat confused as to why anyone would want that for breakfast. Then I went to see. Cidalia. She is a marvel. She cooks with a big grin on her beautiful face as though she is having the time of her life. The tapioca turns out to be a Brazilian speciality of a sort of pancake made with tapioca flour and then filled with toppings like cheese and ham much in the same way you would with an omelette. Cidalia was making tapioca pancakes and omelettes at the same time without missing a beat. I let her choose my fillings for me – mushroom, onion and cheese – and it was delicious.
The hotel boasts an indoor pool and wine spa. The pool is lovely, once again with the fabulous view over the river. It is larger than it looks in the photos, the room is particularly spacious making the pool look smaller. Unusually for a hotel indoor pool it was deep, at one end I was out of my depth, which is just how I like a pool. It was nice and warm too.
The spa is all based on wine products. That is to say, skincare products made from wine and its assorted byproducts. I had a wonderful facial, and my friend had a massage. She went in with knee and hip pain and came out pain free, which is pretty much the best recommendation for any massage. The rest of the spa is downstairs, with a plunge pool, hot beds, sauna, steam room and my favourite, the shower experience. This did confuse me at first as I wasn’t sure how to use it, but fellow guests showed me and I passed the knowledge on like some sort of secret club. Push the button, go inside and the music and lights take you through a series of different showers that go from cold to hot, with rainfalls and jets on your knees. I went through several times.
We had drinks on the terrace before lunch. Pink port with tonic, which is now my new favourite summer drink. Whilst there we came across a lady casually wandering around with a hawk on her arm. Thinking this was some sort of tourist attraction we struck up conversation only to find out that the hawk is a working bird and has an important role at the hotel. She is employed to scare away the seagulls which tend to cause a nuisance when people are eating.
The Yeatman boasts a 2* Michelin restaurant, but as that is only open in the evenings, we had lunch in the Orangerie restaurant. That doesn’t mean compromising on quality though as the executive chef, Ricardo Costa, takes responsibility for all the food in the hotel. As we had eaten at the 1828 steakhouse the night before (lookout for my full review of the WOW complex) we chose seafood.
The tiger prawns that arrived were some of the biggest I have ever seen, served with a delicious bisque. Then we had a dish that I had to look up because I had never heard of it. A cataplana is a clam shaped pot that seals shut and a fish and seafood stew is cooked inside it. It is for a minimum of 2 people, and was served to us at the table. The Server did an excellent job of plating a fish stew so that it looked beautiful. I love to watch skills like this in action, it is one of the things that turns a restaurant into an experience. Needless to say it was delicious.
For dessert I put myself in the hands of the waitress and asked her what she would choose, crème brûlée was the quick answer. Coming from France it isn’t something I would have chosen in Portugal, but I’m glad I did. It came served with the most delicious pistachio ice-cream I have ever had, caramelised pistachios and an almond Florentine.
All of this was served with some delicious wine (they have an excellent wine list) and of course a glass of Taylor’s port.
The service was impeccable; in fact it was impeccable throughout the hotel. Everyone we saw had a smile on their face, everyone was friendly and incredibly professional. Whatever training course the staff go on should be industry standard.
It is hard to classify The Yeatman as the best hotel in Porto, simply because it isn’t in Porto. It is across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia. This is the side of the river where the port warehouses sit. The hotel sits behind the WOW – world of wine – complex with several museums and multiple restaurants. The two sides of the river feel like one city to a visitor, and together make for a great destination.
European cities aren’t known for their relaxation. However, The Yeatman hotel offers a feeling of space and calm that I have never felt on a city break. I chose it in part for the view, but it was the people that made me never want to leave.
**Important disclosure: This is an independent review. I paid for my stay at The Yeatman, though the meal we ate at the Orangerie restaurant was offered on a complimentary basis.**
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