If you are traveling to Europe in December it is pretty hard to get away from all things Christmas related. From Christmas markets to street decorations, from Christmas concerts to torchlight processions. Pretty much every event in Europe in December revolves around Christmas.
In Austria the festival of St Nicolas takes centre stage with bonfires and the rather unusual Krampus, and in Edinburgh Hogmanay is more important than Christmas day itself, but in both places it is the Christmas decorations and the Christmas trees that are all pervading.
Here are my top places to go in Europe in December. If you are looking for the best hotels to spend Christmas then see my article suggesting the best 5 hotels in Europe for Christmas.
Innsbruck in December
On the evening of the 5th of December, at 5pm, St Nicolas will leave the parish church of St Nicolas in Innsbruck for a torchlit procession accompanied by Angels and shepherds and music provided by a Brass band. But it is his journey up the funicular railway to Hungerberg on the 6th that is the real highlight.
The funicular railway in Innsbruck is something of a modern marvel. Even the entrance is a piece of art with its rounded architecture. Unusually for a funicular the journey starts underground before climbing up the mountainside All of the stations on the Hungerburgbahn were designed by the renowned architect Zaha Hadid making the journey memorable for more than just the stunning views.
From Hungerberg you can take a cable car up to Seegrube at 1905m and another on to Hafelekar at 2256m where you can get some stunning views (if the skies are clear) and will almost certainly have snow in December.
But it is Hungerberg where the fun happens as the light fades and the Krampus come out to meet St Nick. The Krampus are a pagan tradition from this part of the Alps, part man part goat, they look more like Yetis with devil masks and huge horns. Where St Nicolas gives presents to the children who have been good the role of the Krampus is to scare and punish the children who have been bad.
The fire and tribal type dancing accompanied by drums makes for a real spectacle.
Why is Innsbruck a good place to go in December ?
As well as St Nicolas and the Krampas Innsbruck also hosts several Christmas markets, and the Kiebachgasse street is transformed into a fairytale.
Innsbruck itself is a compact walkable city with a delightful medieval centre, colourful buildings and royal palaces. St James cathedral is worthy of a visit to see the stunning baroque interiors.
How to get to Innsbruck
You can get to Innsbruck by direct train from Vienna, Salzburg and Munich. There is a small airport with direct flights from London and Amsterdam, but for more flight options it is better to use Munich Airport (1h45 by train)
Where to stay in Innsbruck
The ancient Weisses Kreuz, built in 1465, has been turned into a new hotel in the lively heart of downtown Innsbruck. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen before: chic and baroque rolled all into one.
Tallinn, Estonia, in December
Walking through the centre of Tallinn at Christmas time is like being in the middle of a cheesy Christmas movie. One half expects a prince disguised as a commoner to fall ice skating and need help getting home.
The centre of Tallinn is one of the best-preserved medieval town centres in Europe. The old, fortified town and the upper part of the city at Toompea with its castle are magnificent, especially in December when the rooftops are covered with snow.
The Christmas market in Tallinn, in the town hall square, is one of the best in Europe. It is not a large market but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in looks. At the centre of the market is the city’s Christmas tree. Tallinn was the first place to have a public Christmas tree 580 years ago and the tradition is still alive today.
Santa has his own cabin at the Christmas market, and children who can recite a Christmas poem get a special treat. The market places a special emphasis on local handicrafts and designers,
Cardamon makes a delicious change from cinnamon in the buns you can find on the market, and the range of mulled wine is astonishing – I never knew there were so many options!
For the more sporty there is a ice rink outside the St Nicolas church, and if that isn’t cold enough for you what about some cold-water swimming? At Iglui park you can enjoy the Estonian ritual of a sauna followed by a plunge into the Baltic sea. Decorated for Christmas it is a beautiful place and there is a a bar serving mulled wine and hot chocolate to warm you up.
Why is Tallinn a good place to go in December
Whilst the days are short, the lack of light makes this fairytale place look even more magical which the Christmas lights. It looks like the scene from a Christmas card.
How to get to Tallinn
Tallinn airport has flights from many major European airports and is a favourite of the low-cost carriers like Ryanair as well as Air Baltic.
Whilst you can get by trains there are no direct trains from Riga or Vilnius so any train journey will require a change. A better option is to travel by bus, with hourly departures from Riga.
You can also get to Tallinn by ferry from Helsinki, with a journey time of around 2 hours.
Where to stay in Tallinn
The Telegraaf hotel is right in the middle of the old town, just 2 minutes away from the main square. Previously the city’s telegraph office it is now an elegant place to stay. Little touches of its past can be found dotted through the building, with old phones and framed postage stamps. It has a spa with saunas and a small pool and a rather excellent restaurant (considered by some to be the best in Estonia).
Edinburgh in December
For 400 years the Presbyterian church of Scotland forbade the celebration of Christmas, and so the New year celebration of Hogmanay became the most important celebration of the year. So even though Christmas is now celebrated in Scotland in the same way as the rest of the United Kingdom, the 31st of December remains particularly special.
Nowhere is this more true than in Edinburgh. In fact, celebrating Hogmanay in Edinburgh is cited as being one of the 100 things to do before you die. I experienced it in my younger days, and confess the next morning I thought I had died. The broken nose didn’t help. Long story.
These days the celebration is somewhat more organised. The celebrations starts on the 29th with a torchlight procession. With 40,000 people led by Vikings and a reported 15,000 flaming torches, the procession starts at 7:30pm at the Meadows and ends on Carlton with a bonfire and fireworks. Pipers and drummers as well as street performers add to the carnival ambience.
On the 30th this year (2025) there is a candlelit concert in St Giles Cathedral by the folk trio Lau. There is also a large open-air concert in West Princess Street gardens. For 2025 Peat and Deisel will headline.
On the evening of the 31st there is a massive street party (£33 entrance fee) with street performers, live music, funfair attractions and street food. The fireworks that follow are considered to be some of the best in the world.
Another, separate (your need different tickets), open-air concert takes place again in West Princess Street Gardens. In 2025 it will headline the British duo Wet Leg and the Scottish comedienne Susie McCabe.
If you still have some energy left for the 1st of January there is a free live music trail call First footin’. There are dozens of events taking place across Edinburgh. My recommendation would be the sensational Jimi Shandrix Experience, one of the top ceilidh bands in the world, who (for 2025) will be performing at Portabello town hall (1pm and 3pm).
One thing that I should perhaps mention at this point is that Hogmanay is not what you would call a sober event. The Scots like to drink, especially at Hogmanay. It is possibly the largest gathering of drunk people in the world.
As well as the New years celebrations you can also enjoy the Christmass market on East Princes Street which continues until the 4th January, and the Ice rink in George St.
How to get to Edinburgh
Edinburgh has an international airport with regular flights from across the world. It is also on a high-speed train link to London with direct trains taking just over 4 hours. Book ahead for the best prices and try to sit on the right-hand side of the train for the best views once the train passes Newcastle.
Where to Say in Edinburgh
Edinburgh is rich with some fantastic places to stay, but for Hogmanay you want to be as central as possible to make getting back in the crowds easy. The Kimpton Charlotte Square mixes Scottish tradition with modern luxury. Spread across seven townhouses it has a spa and pool to help you recover from any excess intake. There is even a sound therapy room.
If you are planning your first trip to Europe then make sure your read How to plan a trip to Europe: the 3 essential first steps
If you need help with planning your trip then check out our services
If you have any questions about travel itineraries in Europe then drop us a line. We are happy to help.
If you want more tips and ideas for visiting Europe then FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM