When people describe to me the perfect, imaginary, French hotel it is rarely in Paris. It is often in a small French town, not yet spoilt by tourists. The hotel should be not too big, not too small; with bags of character. There should be some history behind it, but the rooms should not be outdated. A good restaurant is a must, and a bar a pleasant bonus.
Finding such a hotel seems like an impossible task, and yet I have found it.
The Hotel de la Poste is in the delightful, town of Avallon in the northern part of Burgundy. The hotel stands in a prominent position in the town and has been a fixture here since 1707.
Avallon sits on the old road from Paris to Lyon. Before the days of railways and motorways, being on this route put the town in an important strategic position.
France once had one of the best-established postal relay systems in Europe. Fresh horses were stationed across the important routes and the inns that grew up beside them were known as the Hotel de la Poste; which explains why you will find so many old hotels with the same name.
The courtyard where once the horses and carriages arrived is now a peaceful, flower adorned, area with tables lining the sides on sunny days.
The Hotel de la Poste in Avallon has a long history of distinguished guests, from Napoleon to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor to Josephine Baker and even Picasso stayed here. In 1935 the restaurant was awarded three Michelin stars, one of the first hotels in France to receive the award.
After years of languishing, and eight years of closure, the hotel re-opened in 2024. It has been fully renovated and returned to its former glory. The renovation has been done sympathetically, keeping the charming character of the building.
The bar, named 1707 after the year the hotel first opened, serves a large selection of cocktails alongside wine from the nearby Vézelay vineyards. Cocktails of this calibre are not common in this wine centred area of Burgundy.
The rooms are nicely decorated and have some antique furniture which is a lovely nod to the owner’s antiques trade. The beds are very comfortable with superbly smooth sheets. We had one of the smallest rooms, which was really cute up in the eaves, with a view over the courtyard and the rooftops. If I could make 2 small changes, a bedside shelf for the side with no nightstand, and ventilation in the bathroom, it would have been perfect.
The whole hotel smells expensive, like someone has put some thought into the aroma (but not in an overpowering way). The quality of the furnishings and the service are more in line with a 5-star establishment, rather than the 4-star ranking it currently holds. A new spa and pool complex is being planned, and having looked at the plans and location myself, I think it will tip this into a full 5-star hotel.
Breakfast was included in the rate I paid, and featured good coffee, a very nice fruit salad, and some particularly tasty bread. Though the croissants were not the best. I really appreciated the little glass bottles the freshly squeezed orange juice came in. I’m not sure the breakfast is worth the high price tag though (24€ plus extra for eggs).
It was a shame to have to walk through the, really very lovely, restaurant dining room to reach the breakfast room and the large TV playing piano music does nothing to add to the ambience.
The gastronomic restaurant is named 1815 after the date that Napoleon stayed here. I didn’t get to dine here on this visit, but I did visit the kitchen and given the size of the brigade and the quality of what was leaving the kitchen it is clear to me that they are aiming for more from Michelin than the current recommendation.
Avallon is a lovely town. Just what you would hope for from a small town in France, without being damaged by tourism. It has a 15th century clock tower at the old entrance to the medieval centre, and some pleasant streets to wander. It is near the UNESCO heritage village of Vézelay and makes a diverting stopping point on the road to the south.
I would not hesitate to stay here again or to recommend it as part of a French itinerary and wish there were more hotels across France of this quality. But next time I’ll stop at a bar for breakfast.