The province of Girona is one of the four provinces of Catalonia (northeastern Spain). Stretching from the Pyrenees and the border with France, down to the Mediterranean coastline. The coastline in the area is known as the Costa Brava, stretching from Blanes (70km north of Barcelona) up to Portbou and the French border.
Costa Brava means rugged or wild coast. The term became popularised by the Spanish tourism board in the 1950’s and 60’s when Spain began to promote the area as a Mediterranean destination. It has long been popular with French tourists due to its proximity and it’s one of the reasons we started coming to the area 20 years ago.
While the southern towns of the Costa Brava, places like Blanes and Lloret de Mar, are heavily built up and retain little of the traditional Spanish feel, the towns and villages further north are far less commercial and seem more authentic. The entire coastline is very busy in the summer months which is why I like to visit in October.
LLafranc : My preferred seaside town
This is my town of preference, and the location for the most recent stay. Llafranc is one of three coastal villages in the municipality of Palafrugell. It sits in a curved bay with a sandy beach surrounded by hills. The hills should not be underestimated, if you are staying here anywhere other than the direct centre will involve a calf burning climb.
It was originally a fishing village until it gained a reputation as a chic destination in the mid-20th century and it is easy to understand why. The bay is sheltered and relatively calm, perfect for swimming. Whilst the water is brisk in October there were only two days when the water was choppy enough to put me off my morning swim.
We stayed in Villa Pinell which can rented through the Vintage travel group. I highly recommend Vintage Travel: I am not affiliated I just appreciate their quality of service. We have used them several times, and this villa did not disappoint. We had the most amazing un-broken views of the mediterranean from the terrace and pool and the picture windows meant the view carried on inside the villa. We were travelling with friends as well as our daughters and we had plenty of space in the four comfortable bedrooms.
My friend and I took the walk down the hill for our morning swim, before climbing back up and eating breakfast on the terrace. It is a view that I could never tire of.
Coastal Walk in the Costa Brava
One of the best things to do in the Costa Brava, particularly in Autumn when the weather is more clement, is to walk along the coastline. The easy option from Llafranc is to walk south to Calella de Palafrugell and on to El Golfet. The footpath hugs the coastline and takes you through several tunnels cutting out the worst of the climb (although there are still quite a lot of steps).
This walk takes you past my favourite restaurant in the area Tragamar. We spent many a happy day here when the children were smaller, letting them play on the beach while we finished off our long lunch. The children are no longer children, but the fish is still fresh. You will need to book, especially if you want a table on the terrace.
A more challenging option is to walk north up to the lighthouse (Far de Sant Sebastia) from where you get stunning views of the coastline. It is one of the most powerful lighthouses on the coast, built in 1857 and still operational today. From there on to Tamariu via Cala Pedrosa. The climb to the lighthouse is pretty steep and on the road, but from there you get off the road and cross countryside away from the coast and have a fairly easy section before climbing down to Cala Pedrosa. This is a steep path not for the faint hearted, but is worth it. It is one of those little dreamlike coves that are only accessible by foot or by boat. We had the place to ourselves.
Once you climb back out of Cala Pedrosa the walk sticks to the coastline giving one beautiful view after another until you reach the village of Tamariu. At this point the path abruptly stops at a rock 3m above the beach (presumably the original path was washed away at some point) and a mountain-goat like descent is required. Your reward is a pretty bay lined with restaurants serving fresh fish. We chose the sardines from Bar Rodondo.
You can do a loop for the way back so you are not doubling back on yourself but we chose to stick to the coastal path. By the time we got back to Cala Pedrosa the beach was in almost full shade from the surrounding cliffs. To finish the hike we had a very welcome beer at the El Far hotel by the lighthouse. (Be warned the bar and restaurant are closed on Tuesdays).
Begur : Medieval hilltop town in Catalonia
Begur is a historic hillside town dominated by the ruins of a Medieval castle. It is set inland, but the municipality includes several beautiful coves and beaches. On this occasion we decided to head to Begur because the weather that day wasn’t great (about the only downside of visiting in Autumn), and by the time we got there the cloud was so low we could barely see the town let alone the views that you normally get from its high vantage point. It is a nice town to wander round however, with its small, cobbled streets and somewhat surprising architecture. Several locals went to Cuba in the 19th century and brought back the architecture with them. So as you are walking around the streets with old Cantalanin houses and medieval towers you suddenly come across a villa that looks straight out of downtown Havana.
We had the most fantastic meal of our holiday here at Carbo Begur. Whilst they serve a good paella here, we came for the meat and it did not disappoint. Some of the best steak I have ever eaten. Between us we also had some suckling pig and Iberian pork which were also delicious. The aged steaks are cooked on the rare side (slight understatement) so make sure you ask if you want it cooked through. We had a vegetarian in our party, and she were well catered for. The setting is stunning in an old villa with frescos on the walls and high ceilings. They don’t have a website, but you can find them on Instagram @carbobegur.
Girona : popular day trip from Barcelona
Girona is a city 100km north of Barcelona and is the capital of this province. It is often the arrival point for people visiting the area as many of the low-cost airlines fly there and is a popular day trip from Barcelona.
It has a compact, walkable, city centre layered in history which has to a great extent escaped the ravages of mass tourism that its larger cousin suffers from. It is a more refined place away from the stag parties and late night bars. It also has some particularly good shopping.
Girona has a very well-preserved Jewish quarter, El Call, and one of the best places to visit in the city is the Museum of Jewish history. Tracing the history of the Jewish community in Catalonia from the 9th to the 15th centuries it explains the role they played in the cultural and economic life until their eventual expulsion. It was eye-opening to see just how long the Jewish community has been ostracised. It is a very well done museum and at just 4€ it is a real bargain (check opening times before going).
Girona is home to some very good restaurants including the rather wonderful Massana which boasts a Michelin star as well as two Repsol suns. Alas my young traveling companions were hankering after something more casual and modern, so we compromised on the, unfortunately named, Enjoy it Girona in the Plaça de la Independència. This turned out to be a good choice as the terrace was covered, and the rain arrived before our food did. The menu is Tex-Mex meet Spanish and hit the brief with some rather good wraps. The inside of the restaurant is beautifully decorated and was fully decked out for Halloween. It is a great place to bring children.
Other highlights of Girona include the cathedral, Basilica de Sant Feliu, which has the widest Gothic nave in the world. The nave is the central part of the church and in Gothic cathedrals this is generally divided into sections by tall stone columns that help hold up the roof. The builders in Girona decided to do something different and make one large space, a feat of advanced engineering to make it work. The nave in Girona is a staggering 23 metres wide (over 75 feet) which is almost double the width of the nave of Notre-Dame in Paris. Six centuries later it is still standing.
Is Costa Brava worth visiting?
I would say a resounding yes. It is a beautiful area that catches your heart and makes you never want to leave. The views are stunning and the food is great. It remains one of my favourite holiday destinations.
If you want to visit the Costa Brava and Girona on a day trip from Barcelona then I would recommend a small group tour like this one. (Affiliate link)
For more articles about Spain see My travel guide to Spain
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